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| Week
of March 11, 2002 |
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the
underground gourmet
 The
Cheesesteak Czar
What the Doughnut
Man is to doughnuts, what the Soup Nazi is to soup, what
Melampo is to soppressata sandwiches, that's what Gary
Thompson (pictured) wants to be to Philly cheesesteaks
— not so much a didactic monomaniac as simply someone
who's perfected his craft. If you were interviewing Thompson
for the position, however, you might consider him either
underqualified (he's from New Jersey) or overqualified:
His father cooked for General MacArthur, his Japanese
mother was a chef, and for twelve years, Thompson ran
the charming French-eclectic restaurant Sonia Rose. The
restaurant closed in September, and three weeks ago, Thompson
opened BB Sandwich Bar on one of Greenwich Village's
least charming blocks.
The move is extraordinary, rather
as if Daniel Boulud were to get himself a chili-dog
cart, but Thompson is unrepentant: "I've been perfecting
this sandwich for years," he says, "tweaking spices,
sweating onions." Philly aficionados should know up
front that Thompson's is an interpretive cheesesteak.
The standard thin-sliced rib eye and American cheese
are joined by deeply flavorful onions he's macerated
for four hours. (When he runs out of onions, he closes,
just like Totonno's. And you'll need the breath mint
he tosses in the bag.) Some die-hard Pat's and Geno's
fans might also question Thompson's automatic addition
of ketchup and a fancy chili-pepper condiment made with
balsamic vinegar, and especially his use of poppy-seed
kaiser rolls ("That's bogus," says one native Philadelphian
forcefully). But even sticklers couldn't deny that the
unusually structurally sound end product is an ethereal
melding of sweet, salty, and tangy flavors, and a perfect
addition to Manhattan's fast-food universe. The no-frills
store is easy to overlook, and so far, the NYU lacrosse
team and the bar staff of the Fat Black Pussycat down
the street have made up most of BB's clientele. To spread
the word, Thompson is running a two-for-$5 special through
April, or at least until the cheesesteak-chomping multitudes
start lining up outside. -- ROB PATRONITE
BB Sandwich Bar
120 West 3rd Street
212-473-7500
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best of the week
Celebrate
Greek Orthodox Lent at Estiatorio Milos
Owner Costas Spiliadis is once again
throwing a Clean Monday celebration to mark the start
of Greek Orthodox Lent. While no meat, butter, eggs,
or cheese is permissible, the seafood's going to be
flying thick and fast. Be brave and order the octopus,
which is world-class. (March 18; to order tickets, call
609-683-0800.)
Estiatorio
Milos
125 W. 55th Street
212-245-7400
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in print
 Su-She
Ever wonder why
there aren't more woman sushi chefs? According to tradition,
women's hands are warmer than men's, which isn't good
for the fish. Chicama's new sushi chef, Arisa Suzuki,
has overcome such dubious medical claims, however, and
as far as we know, she's one of two female sushi chefs
in New York. Her new menu takes a decidedly Latin approach
to sushi, and if her rolls taste hot, it's from ingredients
like jalapeños, chili oil, and shichimi aïoli.
Chicama
35 East 18th Street
212-505-2233
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Ask Gael
You're on jury duty, and
you're smiling?
I leave
my cell phone behind and bask in the languor of the court,
waiting for the drumroll to spit out my name. For us type
A's, it's an island vacation. And then there's lunch.
Dealt a two-hour slide, I study the Citizen's Jury Project
"Where to Eat" guide and settle into a sunny spot at City
Hall (pictured, 131 Duane Street; 212-227-7777),
requesting speedy service, then luxuriating in the special
salmon club with fabulous fries and a lush chopped Caesar.
Overdressed, the way I like it, though underaccessorized.
That leaves 45 minutes for Key-lime pie, espresso, and
the walk back. Next day, I collect a few gourmandlich
hopefuls from the compound for a run to Yummy Noodles
in the Chinatown Arcade (46 Bowery; 212-374-1327)
for crispy pig, soya chicken, wonderful beef chow fun,
and too much more for a pittance. Alas, Gary's Hot Spot
on Church Street, with its wondrously fatty oxtails and
crunchy macaroni, is gone, but Nam
(110 Reade Street; 212-267-1777), with its stylish and
refined take on Vietnamese cooking, is kinder to the arteries.
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Bites & Buzz Archive
Week of March 4
Prune's new brunch; a cheese lover's handbook; Gael gets taken for a ride
in Rego Park
Week of February
25
Breakfast cooking classes for kids; Montparnasse's dazzling duo; Gael
gets an eyeful at Mexico Magico
Week of February
18
The lowly radish gets a makeover; Two Little Red Hens take Manhattan;
a breadmaker's best friend; Gael racks 'em up at Slate
and
more ...
Photos: From top to bottom- Carina Salvi (2); Patrik
Rytikangas
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