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EDITED BY ROB PATRONITE
AND ROBIN RAISFELD |
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| Week
of January 27, 2003 |
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takeout
 Late to Bread
Until recently, the “Bakes” part of
Margaret Palca Bakes, a modest Carroll Gardens
pastry shop, referred specifically to sweets: cookies,
carrot cake, and especially the irresistible rugalach
that have earned the eponymous owner citywide
recognition. Now, after a little yeasty
experimentation, the name also encompasses bread.
“I didn’t really know what I was
doing,” says Palca. “I was going for
something between La Brea and Amy’s,”
referring to Nancy Silverton’s temple of dough
in L.A. and the Manhattan chainlet famous for bread
twists and fennel-raisin loaves. Whatever the
intention, the results are impressive: a fine baguette
and terrific rustic white or whole-wheat rolls with a
light and airy open crumb. The latter are great for
sandwiches, and Palca puts them to good use in a range
of simple, delicious combinations ($3 to $5) like
roast turkey with New York State Cheddar and mango
chutney, and grilled chicken with fresh mozzarella,
pesto, and tomato.
Margaret Palca Bakes
191 Columbia Street, Brooklyn
718-802-9771
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Ask
Gael
 I feel like pigging out.
Images of a crisp-skinned critter, faintly pink and
very juicy, dance in your head, I imagine. Stake a
claim quick for Sunday’s pig pull at the small
and funky Biscuit. It’s definitely worth
the voyage to Prospect Heights—especially now
that chef Josh Cohen has mastered the crackle of the
skin. The place is just a hole in the wall with a
comfort-food menu most of the time. But on a Pig
Pickin’ Sunday (February 2, March 30), oil-cloth
tabletops are crowded with potato salad, cole slaw,
macaroni and cheese, and collards in vintage mixing
bowls—amuse-bouche preludes to the pig.
Maio Martinez, the gifted baking partner, sends out
sensational warm biscuits. And later, when
you’re excessively porked-out, her homey
desserts seduce you into a final gluttony. Watch for
pineapple upside-down cake, the cobbler, old-fashioned
devil’s food, pecan and buttermilk pies, and
maybe the best peanut-butter cookie ever.
Biscuit
367 Flatbush Avenue, Brooklyn
718-398-2227
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Bites & Buzz Archive
Week of January 13
Wall Street's new lunch retreat; Cipriani's specialty drink to go; a culinary delight in Washington Heights.
Week of January 6
The BLT gets upscaled at RM; Beyoglu's Sultan of Swagger has gone.
Week of December 31
Chef Collichio hones his craftbar; the applejack cobbler martini; a chocolate
garden in SoHo; birthday season at Trattoria Dell’Arte
and
more ...
Photos:Tina Rupp, Patrik Rytikangas
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