Lavagna

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It’s still possible to visit this intimate East Village Italian/Mediterranean spot and feel as though you discovered it yourself. Tucked away on a quiet side street, the cozy one room eatery—complete with quaint touches of candlelight and a tin ceiling—is comfortably romantic. A wood burning oven is responsible for some of the greater successes, like the crisp-crusted pizza margherita and the whole roasted fish served with an enticing grape tomato relish. But be prepared to leave smelling like smoke. — Gabriella Gershenson

Pizzette margherita, $14; whole roasted fish for two, market price