Pinch—Pizza by the Inch

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This venue is closed.

Pizza sold by the inch seems like an ideal catering concept, but does it make sense in a sit-down pizzeria? Only if the pies are good, and at Pinch, they're exceptional. Brothers Todd and Matthew Birnbaum paint their thin, twice-baked crusts with a light marinara, covering each 4-to-36-inch-long catwalk with three different cheeses and a buffet's worth of toppings. It's not unusual to see parties of college-educated professionals furrowing their brows over the complex ordering system. But, like honest subcontractors, the Birnbaums offer "price quotes" to the truly baffled. Homemade pastas and heaping salads are much easier to understand, and not half bad for a place fixated on pizza-metrics. — Jon Steinberg

Reservations are accepted for dinner only.

Pizza, $0.50 per inch, toppings extra; arugula with goat cheese and citrus vinaigrette, $9