Tropica

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This venue is closed.

Closed for renovations. Reopening May, 2008.

It's hardly relaxing to watch escalators carry harried commuters between the MetLife building and Grand Central. Perhaps that's why the restaurant group behind Tropica was wise enough to build a mini sanctuary within the restaurant. The best tables face away from the bar, where you can gaze up at the faux white roof shingles and tiny windows lit from within, or admire the whimsical Americana and folk art. Because of its location, Tropica attracts large numbers of business lunchers and suits traveling in packs. The menu is heavy on fish and seafood, with Latin American and Asian influences. Proceed with caution if your taste buds tend toward the mild— spicing hits tropical heat levels in most dishes. For example, a tender butter-lettuce salad with thinly-sliced apples and a tangy citrus dressing is punched up with palate-burning spiced cashew nuts, and a beautiful hunk of seared tuna is served with an unexpected jicama and jalapeno slaw, which is pleasingly crunchy but surprisingly hot. Winners include meaty, deep-fried crabcakes, neither too rich nor too greasy, and with a piquant papaya-mango sauce. Tropica is closed on the weekends, when the dealmakers have left the building. — Kara Newman

Crab cake appetizer, $16, seared tuna, $27

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New York Magazine Reviews

• Gael Greene's Full Review (6/8/98)