Restaurants

License to Grill
Elevate your backyard cuisine with advice from barbecue masters and grilling savants.
 

EDITED BY GILLIAN DUFFY
PHOTO BY DANA GALLAGHER
Fish tale: Grilled Fish Steaks, The Pearl Oyster Bar

Great Catch: Grilling Fish
Is there a trick to grilling fish? There are plenty; that's why we enlisted Rebecca Charles of Pearl Oyster Bar to guide us every step of the way, from market to kitchen to grill (which should, by the way, be well cleaned, well oiled, and as hot as possible). Charles insists we forget everything we've heard about fancy marinades and sauces, and stick to herb-infused olive oil, so that fine piece of just-caught halibut won't stick to the grill. A squeeze of lemon, a drizzle of oil, and that's it -- a foolproof summer formula (so long as you keep your darned hands off till we tell you it's time). Go fish.

Plus:
Fish Grilling Tips

 
GRILLED FISH RECIPES
All recipes from Rebecca Charles, Pearl Oyster Bar
Perfect Grilled Fish Steaks   Summer Caponata
         
Sugar Snap Peas & Lemon Toasted Almonds   Roasted-Red-Pepper Relish
         
        Plus: More Seafood Recipes
 
     
 
Chuck It All: The Perfect Burger
Any professional chef will tell you that the simplest things are the hardest to get right, and nothing could be simpler than your basic backyard burger. According to Todd English, whose burger panini at Olives New York is a thing of medium-rare beauty, less is more. His advice? Buy good meat, but not too lean -- preferably twice-ground chuck -- and handle it with care (which means as little as possible, both on and off the grill). A perfect burger on a toasted brioche bun can stand alone, but it doesn't have to -- not with zesty relishes like avocado salsa and mustard pickle. Have the digicam ready -- you'll want to record all those grinning faces for posterity.
 
HAMBURGER RECIPES
All recipes from Todd English, Olives New York
         
The Perfect Hamburger with Choice Toppings
         
        Plus: More Beef Recipes
 
     
 

Where There's Smoke: The Barbecue
Let's get something straight: Throwing a steak or a batch of burgers on the Weber? That's not barbecue. Not in the true, slow-cooked, dry-rubbed, or, alternatively, sauce-slathered sense of the word. Barbecue is an art form -- one that's slightly daunting to any chef whose New York kitchen isn't equipped with a soot-encrusted smoker and several cords of hickory wood. But in fact, there's nothing daunting about rigging an impromptu pit out of a kettle grill and rustling up a rack of ribs or a smoked chicken when the craving strikes -- and that craving has been striking nightly since Danny Meyer opened his rollicking roadhouse, Blue Smoke, two months ago. Under the tutelage of Illinois pit master Mike Mills, Meyer and his culinary team -- Michael Romano and Kenny Callaghan -- have become assiduous students of Memphis-style dry-rubbed barbecue, and not only have they adapted their restaurant methods for the backyard barbecuer (lopping a good five hours off the cooking time), they've shared their recipes for an all-American picnic-table feast, from curry-tinged deviled eggs to smoky stovetop "pit" beans. Meyer even unearthed his grandmother's potato-salad recipe. But don't expect him to be as generous with his proprietary Blue Smoke Magic Dust rub and sauce: Some secrets just have to stay that way.

Plus: More Barbecue Resources

 
 
 
BARBECUE RECIPES: A MENU FOR 8
All recipes from Michael Romano and Kenny Callaghan, Blue Smoke
Deviled Eggs   Iceberg Lettuce with Roquefort Dressing
         
 Barbecued Spareribs or Baby Back Ribs    Brined and Smoked Whole Chicken
         
Potato Salad   Cole Slaw
         
"Pit" Beans