The Perfectionist's Thanksgiving

See Also
The Feasts: Holiday Banquets to the Nth Degree
  Giblet Gravy

The Chef
Thomas Keller of Per Se

Servings
8 people

Ingredients
Turkey bones and wings, cut into 1-inch pieces, plus liver, gizzards, heart, neck
2 onions, cut into 1-inch pieces, reserving 1/2 onion for roasting
3 tablespoons canola oil
1 ½ quarts low-sodium organic chicken stock
3 carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 stick celery, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 sprig each sage, thyme, bay leaf
2 tablespoons flour
Salt and freshly ground white pepper

Cooking Instructions
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Set the bones in a baking pan with half an onion, toss with oil, and roast until the bones are golden brown. Remove the bones and onion from the roasting pan, deglaze the pan with 1 cup water over medium heat until the brown bits are incorporated into the water, and reserve the liquid. Put the bones and roasted onion in a stockpot, cover with stock, and bring to a simmer. Add the deglazing liquid. Skim the stock, add the vegetables and herbs, and simmer for 11/2 hours. Strain and return the stock to a low simmer. 

Meanwhile, sauté the liver and set aside to cool, then dice and reserve. Put the gizzard, heart, and neck in a saucepan, cover with cold water, and bring to just below a simmer to blanch. Drain and cut the gizzard into small pieces and add it to the stock along with the remaining giblets. Cook the giblets until tender, about 11/2 hours, and reduce stock to desired color and flavor (should have at least 3 cups). Strain and reserve the giblets.

Add the reduced stock to a shallow pan and sprinkle with flour, whisking until incorporated and smooth. Cook for 5 minutes, until it has thickened to a gravy consistency. Strain, add the giblets and chopped liver, and season with salt and pepper.  Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Set the bones in a baking pan with half an onion, toss with oil, and roast until the bones are golden brown. Remove the bones and onion from the roasting pan, deglaze the pan with 1 cup water over medium heat until the brown bits are incorporated into the water, and reserve the liquid. Put the bones and roasted onion in a stockpot, cover with stock, and bring to a simmer. Add the deglazing liquid. Skim the stock, add the vegetables and herbs, and simmer for 11/2 hours. Strain and return the stock to a low simmer. 

Meanwhile, sauté the liver and set aside to cool, then dice and reserve. Put the gizzard, heart, and neck in a saucepan, cover with cold water, and bring to just below a simmer to blanch. Drain and cut the gizzard into small pieces and add it to the stock along with the remaining giblets. Cook the giblets until tender, about 11/2 hours, and reduce stock to desired color and flavor (should have at least 3 cups). Strain and reserve the giblets.

Add the reduced stock to a shallow pan and sprinkle with flour, whisking until incorporated and smooth. Cook for 5 minutes, until it has thickened to a gravy consistency. Strain, add the giblets and chopped liver, and season with salt and pepper. 

Best With
Suggested Menu: sunchoke soup with virginia-ham croquettes; virginia-ham croquettes; breast of four corners farm's turkey "cuit sous vide" and roasted leg "en ballotine"; giblet gravy; green-bean casserole: Oven-baked haricots verts with cream of california cepe mushroom and crispy shallots; garnet sweet-potato mille-feuille with white-truffle royale and shaved truffles from alba; Waldorf-salad stuffing; pecan pie with whipped cream; caramel popcorn.

To Drink: Weinbach 2002 Gewurztraminer Cuvee Theo; Alsace, France ($40). This dry Alsatian Gewurztraminer has a medium to full body but finishes dry and spicy. It works with the diverse flavors of the turkey and accompaniments.