Calle Nueve
David Ruggerio reminds us of Max Fischer, the precocious prepster in Rushmore who can't say no to any extracurricular activity, be it fencing or beekeeping. Over the years, the chef and cookbook author has spearheaded a steakhouse, a brasserie, several fancy French restaurants, and, most recently, a sushi parlor-not to mention his surviving a minor scandal or two. His latest after-school project is Calle Nueve, or "Ninth Street," in the newly renovated Marylou's space. The contemporary-Mexican menu ranges from shrimp seviche with roasted cactus to smoky peanut mole with grilled quail. And, for those who miss the boozy late-night scene at Marylou's, frozen fresh-fruit margaritas and "tequinis"-souped-up tequila martinis.
21 West 9th Street
212-995-0600
· Cuisine: Mexican