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                          Bill Devin Benefit at Fairway Steakhouse 
                          Cheese hero Steven Jenkins hosts 
                          this culinary happening, featuring high-end foodstuffs, 
                          bottomless glasses of wine, and crackling foodie patter. 
                          Profits from the sale of tickets ($100 each) will go 
                          to the family of the late Bill Devin, pioneer of unsung 
                          Catalan wines.  
                          March 10 at 7:30.  
                          Fairway Steakhouse 
                           
                          74th St. and Broadway 
                          To reserve, call 917-862-6996  
                           
                            
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                           OLA 
                          Never trust a skinny chef—that’s 
                          our motto. But we’ll make an exception for seviche 
                          king Douglas Rodriguez. We haven’t seen him in 
                          person lately, so we can’t attest to his svelteness, 
                          but we hear he’s on a low-carb diet. He’s 
                          sharing some of the secrets of his regimen at OLA, 
                          his brightly designed new midtown restaurant, in a menu 
                          that includes a “pure protein” section and 
                          low-carb dishes indicated by asterisks, as well as signature 
                          tapas and seviches from his former kitchens at Pipa 
                          and Chicama. We’re 
                          not giving up starch, but if you’re committed 
                          to the Atkins plan, we can’t think of a better 
                          way to go than Nuevo Latino meatballs in a spicy foie 
                          gras sauce and crispy Cuban pork with oregano-lime mojo. 
                          304 East 48th Street 
                          212-759-0590 
                         
                          Re Sette  
                          Before he became a restaurateur, Yagur Sheinman imported 
                          gold jewelry and diamonds, so it makes perfect sense 
                          that he’d choose a diamond-district locale for 
                          his fine-dining debut. Re Sette’s vaguely 
                          Gothic décor features elaborate candelabras and 
                          a 26-foot-long “king’s table” on the 
                          mezzanine (re sette is Italian for “seven 
                          kings”). Chef Alessandro Sacchetti makes optimal 
                          use of his wood-burning brick oven with fig-and-Gorgonzola 
                          pizzas and Cornish game hens, and reprises his grandmother’s 
                          Sunday sauce, a braised-meat gravy. A trio of special-events 
                          promoters from the China Club hope to draw a late-night 
                          crowd with downtown D.J.’s, but they’ll 
                          have to compete with a singing waiter prone to impromptu 
                          arias.  
                          7 West 45th Street 
                          212-221-7530 
                           
                          
                        The Green Table  
                          Unless they’re planning your wedding, caterers 
                          tend to fly under the culinary radar. One way some of 
                          the savvier firms combat anonymity is by opening a restaurant 
                          where the public can sample their wares. Great Performances 
                          spawned Mae Mae Café, Sage American Kitchen operates 
                          Café St. Bart’s, and now the Cleaver Co., 
                          famous for its homey potpies and sustainable-agriculture 
                          mind-set, has launched a café and wine bar adjacent 
                          to its Chelsea Market catering kitchen. The Green 
                          Table bills itself as New York’s only wine 
                          bar featuring organic food and drinks, including popcorn 
                          with ancho chili and orange salt, meat-loaf sandwiches, 
                          and Pinkus pilsner from Germany. A dozen wines are served 
                          by the elegant Spiegelau glass, and the menu—which 
                          quotes high organic priestess Alice Waters’s “Eating 
                          is a political act” manifesto—changes seasonally. 
                           
                          75 Ninth Avenue, at 15th Street 
                          212-741-9174  
                          
                        Maria's Mexican Bistro  
                          When it came to naming his new restaurant, Maria’s 
                          Mexican Bistro, Nelson Nacipucha played it safe: 
                          Both his mother and his mother-in-law happen to be Marias. 
                          Along with prolific partner Armando Zumba—who 
                          co-owns Park Slope’s popular Los Pollitos rotisserie 
                          restaurants as well as Café Mexicana, a charming 
                          new four-stool source for excellent tamales and Mexican 
                          hot chocolate next door to Maria’s—Nacipucha’s 
                          out to refine the Mexican dining experience and lead 
                          Brooklynites out of taqueria territory and into Maria’s 
                          relatively swank surroundings. The gently priced, not 
                          strictly Mexican menu augments the familiar world of 
                          guacamole, enchiladas, and fajitas with green mussels 
                          steamed in a white-wine-chipotle broth, baked red snapper 
                          with roasted red peppers, and three takes on paella. 
                          Both moms should be proud.  
                          669 Union Street, Park Slope, 
                          Brooklyn 
                          718-638-2344.  
                           
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                      | shopping | 
                     
                     
                       
                         Frozen 
                        Assets 
                        When Il Laboratorio del Gelato 
                        opened on the Lower East Side last summer, ice-cream connoisseurs 
                        from every Zip Code trekked to Orchard Street for scoops 
                        of vibrantly flavored gelato and sorbet concocted by Jon 
                        Snyder, the creator of the Ciao Bella brand. Since then, 
                        the gelato’s worked its way onto dessert menus around 
                        town (like Mary’s 
                        Fish Camp and Pastis) 
                        and finally, as of this week, into gourmet-store freezers. 
                        Ten flavors, from the classic (vanilla, chocolate, and 
                        strawberry) to the creative (toasted almond, white chocolate), 
                        are available in snappy square eighteen-ounce tubs at 
                        Citarella (1250 
                        Sixth Ave. at 49th St. 212-332-1599), Grace’s Marketplace 
                        (1237 Third Ave, 212-737-0600), and Tuller Premium Foods 
                        (199 Court Street, Brooklyn; 718-222-9933).  
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                                Ask Gael  
                                 Real 
                                food, please. Make it a little French.  
                                Funny how a restaurant that the critics kind of 
                                like, or even love, shines for a while and then 
                                fades from the radar. I remember hearing raves 
                                for Django, but it’s far from my 
                                beaten track. I never got there till last week, 
                                when a foodnik pal said, “Let’s eat 
                                French.” What a delicious surprise. Chef 
                                Paul Zweben has the accent down pat. Except for 
                                banquettes so low we look like toddlers at table, 
                                the six of us, all notoriously fussy, are pleased. 
                                I’m not sure when I’ve had a better 
                                onion soup. A persnickety guest asks for her moules 
                                less cooked and her frites more cooked. Done. 
                                Fabulous frites. And we like the foie gras terrine 
                                with toast, and moules gitanes, too—with 
                                merguez sausage, sofrito, and saffron. Now everyone 
                                is passing tastes back and forth (minor chaos), 
                                but that means I can vouch for a fine bouillabaisse, 
                                crusty skate on a preserved-lemon polenta cake, 
                                and my guy’s steak au poivre—right 
                                up there with his favorite at Balthazar. 
                                 
                                Django 
                                480 Lexington Avenue, at 46th Street 
                                212-871-6600  
                                 
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            In the Archives 
             February 
              24, 2003  
              Bobby Flay takes up tapas at Bolo; Rocco DiSpirito ditches the steaks 
              at Tuscan; and Orhan Yegen, formerly of Beyoglu, pops up at Efendi. 
               
               
              February 
              17, 2003 
              P.J. Clarke's finally reopens; rice ball mania hits the city; the 
              debut of 36-92 and Parish & Co.; Gael goes Ouest. 
               
               
               
              
            
 Photos: Kenneth Chen (1 & 3), Carina Salvi (2 & 5), Ellie Miller. 
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