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Deborah — Life
Love Food
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| Oh, Deborah:
Chef Stanton and her partner David Oh. |
After legitimizing hemp as a cooking
ingredient at Galaxy, taking an Asian-tropical detour
to Miami at Chow, and grilling Korean barbecue at Woo
Lae Oak, chef Deborah Stanton has found her Greenwich
Village niche. This week, she and partner David Oh (pictured)
open Deborah — Life Love Food, a narrow aisle
of a restaurant with red Ultrasuede banquettes, an open
kitchen, and what Stanton calls a modern American comfort-food
menu. Mini meat loaf, pork chops, and banana pudding are
a given, but plundering the global larder for tuna-carpaccio
napoleon with wasabi oil, beer-battered fish and chips,
and a Cuban sandwich doesn't make this intrepid chef the
least bit uncomfortable.
43 Carmine
Street
212-242-2606
· Cuisine: Modern American
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| Deux for dinner:
Pigalle. |
Pigalle
and Jean-Luc
Thanks to trend-setters like Keith McNally, SoHo is still
considered the nexus of New York bistromania, but steak-frites
and frisée salads are continuing their inexorable
march into less culinarily blessed precincts. Like Hell's
Kitchen, for instance, where the team from L'Express has
somehow managed to transform the Metro Deli at the Days
Inn into Pigalle, a brasserie outfitted with a
tin ceiling, zinc bar, and terra-cotta tile floor. The
kitchen, soon to be serving around the clock, covers all
the bistro basics, from pâté to cassoulet,
none of which costs more than $18.
790 Eighth Avenue, at 48th Street
212-489-2233
· Cuisine: French Bistro
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| West Side meets
Left Bank: Ed Kleefeld at Jean-Luc. |
Uptown, promoter Ed Kleefield has
opened Jean-Luc, where former Raoul's
chef Eric Le Dily supplements standards like steak au
poivre and lobster bisque with such newfangled notions
as bison carpaccio and crab-crusted Chilean sea bass.
The room is equally eclectic, mixing brick-red velvet
banquettes and Biedermeier chairs with second-century
mosaics. Lest there be any doubt, the organic hazelnut
crème brûlée is one innovation we
wholeheartedly endorse.
507 Columbus
Avenue, near 84th Street
212-712-1700
· Cuisine: French Bistro
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| Campbell's coup:
@SQC's chef and namesake. |
@SQC
At Avenue,
Scott Campbell reacquainted New Yorkers with the often
overlooked pleasures of brunch, the meal they love to
hate. This week, he brings his rich repertoire of almond
croissants, apple-cinnamon pancake soufflés, and
pudding-thick hot chocolate to @SQC, his new base
of blueberry-pancake operations. (The name comes from
his initials.) After breakfast and lunch are up and running,
he'll start dinner service, but for now Campbell fans
will have to content themselves with daytime fare like
scrambled eggs with scallions and goat cheese, assorted
vegetable and grain salads, and a burger with Belgian-style
frites.
270 Columbus
Avenue, near 72nd Street
212-579-0100
· Cuisine: Breakfast/Brunch
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Looking
Ahead... |
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Late November
Marseilles,
630 Ninth Ave. at 44th St.,
212-333-2323
Set-up: Two-story,
4000 square-foot space designed in 1940's French-Moroccan
style with zinc bar and ebonized mahogany accents.
Cuisine: French/Mediterranean
Chef: Alex Urena
(Blue Hill)
Owner: Simon Oren
(Sushi Samba,
L' Express, Maritime)
December
Blue
Fin,
Set-up: Situated in the highly-anticipated
W Times Square Hotel, this 400-seater will have
a floating staircase connecting its two levels and a
view of the Great White Way.
Cuisine: Seafood
Chef: Paul Sale (Icon at W Court Hotel)
Owner: Stephen "BR Guest" Hanson (Isabella's,
Atlantic Grill)
January, 2002
Suba,
109 Ludlow St., 212-982-5714
Set-up: Subterreanean, multi-level grotto with
moat, underwater lamps, and floor-to-ceiling glass-paneled
doors. Designed by Andre Kikoski.
Cuisine:Pan-Latin
Chef: Stephane Bucholzer (L'Actuel)
Owners: Yann De Rochefort and Phillip Morgan
Fiamma,
206 Spring St., 212-653-0100
Set-up:
Tri-level space in SoHo with exterior glass elevator
and 130 seats
Cuisine: Italian
Chef: Michael White
(formerly at the four-star Spiaggia in Chicago and chef
di cucina at Ristorante San Domenico in Imola, Italy)
Owner: Stephen "BR
Guest" Hanson (Blue Water Grill, Park Avalon, Ruby
Foo's)
April, 2002
Blue
Smoke, 116 East 27th
St.
Set-up: Jazz joint with a built-in barbecue pit
at former 27 Standard space.
Cuisine: Barbecue
Chef: Pitmaster Kenny Callaghan (Sous Chef, Union
Square Cafe)
Owners: Danny Meyer (Gramercy
Tavern, Union
Square Cafe, Eleven
Madison Park)
--
TISA COEN
Hear about a restaurant opening? Post an announcement
- even a rumor - in the
Food Forum.
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Openings Archive
Week of
November 5
Across the Street, Mezz@Town
Week of
October 29
Commissary, Papillon
Week of
October 22
The Harrison, The Minnow
Week
of October 15
Dylan's Candy Bar, Luce, roomservicecafe
and
more ...
Photos: Patrik Rytikangas.
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