Aquavit

Profile

Initially, the difference between the old, familiar Aquavit and the hyperstylized, postmillennial version is a little jarring. The entrance to the restaurant’s quarters resembles a bleakly modernist public square on the outskirts of, say, Göteborg, replete with scraggly trees and rows of abandoned marble benches. Inside, the bar has been greatly expanded into a long lounge area, where you can twirl about in high-backed Jacobsen “swan” chairs. The restaurant’s homemade aquavits used to be stored behind the bar; now they’re displayed along the wall, like pieces of art, in luminous square tankards. Once you’ve adjusted to this new aesthetic, however, the food at Aquavit continues to be excellent; in fact, it’s arguably better than before. After the departure of chef Marcus Jernmark in 2014, former pastry chef Emma Bengtsson is in the kitchen with her take on classic Scandinavian preparations like herring, gravlax, and contemporary twists like venison tartare. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Prix-Fixe Menus

Three course lunch, $52; three course dinner, $98

Chef's Tasting Menu
Mon—Sat, 5:30pm—10:30pm, seven courses, $155

Related Stories

Best of New York Awards

• Best Brunch—Smorgasbord! (2007)

Featured In

• African Thanksgiving by Marcus Samuelsson (11/12/07)
• Places to Eat Popcorn (9/24/07)
• Adam Platt's Picks for the Best Cheap Expensive Food in Town (7/30/07)
• 101 Best New York Restaurants for 2006 (1/9/06)

Recipes at Aquavit

• Gravlax With Mustard Sauce (2003)
• Ice Queen (2002)
• Glögg (2001)