Bobo

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The basement entrance of this townhouse restaurant is conspicuously unmarked. To get to the dining room, you must duck into a candlelit lounge area and climb up a rickety flight of stairs. The dining-room tables are set with glittering candles, too, and the room is fitted with tastefully rummaged knickknacks (glass-bead chandeliers, an hourglass, carefully arranged old-master knockoffs on the walls), along with a bookshelf casually stocked, like a summer rental in the Hamptons, with random volumes by Escoffier and Alan Dershowitz. The kitchen is on its fourth chef, Cedric Tovar, formerly of Daniel. His menu features new preparations of classic French dishes (lamb shoulder en cocotte, filet de bœuf), as well as some more New American items. If you have a choice, eat upstairs, where there is a second, more elegant, pocket-size bar (where a small plates menu is available alongside the house cocktails) and a stylish alfresco area, which is open during temperate weather. — Adam Platt

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New York Magazine Reviews

• Adam Platt's Full Review (11/3/08)

Featured In

• Adam Platt's Where to Eat 2009 (1/5/09)
• Restaurant Openings: Bobo, Tokyo Bar, and Fiamma (9/24/07)