Dos Caminos

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These high-concept Mexican spots are the festive links in Stephen Hanson’s B.R. Guest chain. Stylized South-of-the-Border food created by chef Ivy Stark and flavorful margaritas (sage and plum, anyone?) appeal both to after-work hordes and weekend tourist throngs. Though the dining rooms at the massive midtown outlets and the relatively diminutive Soho location make token gestures at Mexican themes – wooden crosses, carved wall panels – sleek latticed walls and mood lighting are more hotel lounge than hacienda. With big mortars of guacamole made fresh tableside and those tasty cocktails (plus more than 100 tequilas), meals can be an afterthought for some patrons. It follows suit that the most satisfying orders are hearty appetizers like generously-stuffed plantain empanadas. Entrees can be poorly executed. Dryish chicken-filled enchiladas drown in mole and tomatillo sauces, and organic salmon sinks in a bowl of too-sweet pineapple salsa. The later you arrive, the louder Dos Caminos gets. If you’re not with a large group to join in the revelry, it's possible to request a quieter section. At the Park Avenue branch, the Alcove overlooks a large picture window; on Third, loft-like areas called Cielos are set above the main room, and you can just stay inside in Soho. Downtown's party is on the heated patio. — Michael Kaminer

Roasted plantain empanadas, $10; guacamole, $14; ceviche trio, $17

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Best of New York Awards

• Best Margarita (2007)

Recipes at Dos Caminos

• Passion-Fruit Cooler (2003)