Fuleen Seafood Restaurant

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It's always empowering to stare down your dinner before eating it. In rows of tanks at the front window of Fuleen Seafood are fresh fish and crustaceans waiting to be sizzled. This place is straight-up seafood in unstylish surroundings (except for a red velvet back wall, festooned with gold dragons). Steal a glance at the other tables and spy on what the predominantly Chinese clientele are having, or just ask the friendly, knowledgeable hostess—give her a category to work with (chicken, shrimp, squid) and some personal preferences, and she'll steer you in the right direction. Don't miss out on the delectable Dungeness crabs, prepared in one of several styles: steamed with sliced garlic or fiery Harbor-style. And prepare to get messy with the shell-on fried shrimp with hot chili—they're worth it, because they're tender, salty, and spicy. Non-seafood options are equally fine. Lightly sautéed garlicky snow pea leaves have crunch to the bite. Also good is the East Coast-style Peking duck—waiters pile the juicy, crispy duck, along with hoisin sauce and scallions, onto puffy rice buns—an interesting variation from the more commonly served moo shu-style pancakes. — Laren Spirer

For an unbeatable bargain, come between 11:30 a.m. and 3 p.m. for the $6 daily lunch specials. For the freshest seafood, always ask for the day's specials.

Dungeness crab, seasonal market price; fried jumbo shrimps with hot chili, $15.95; Peking duck, $30; sautéed snow pea leaves, $13.95

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