Giorgio's of Gramercy

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Giorgio’s exterior has all the trappings of exclusivity, but step inside this Gramercy standout and all expectations of haughtiness dissolve. Behind thick velvet curtains, a warm interior of beige and burgundy backs a sophisticated and inviting scene, and the diverse, mixed-age crowd generates a convivial buzz. Still, it’s the kitchen’s creations that leave the strongest impressions: pan-roasted meats and fish, and a handful of pasta dishes, are the building blocks of chef Craig Stafford’s Italian-inflected New American menu. Sweet morello cherries and tangy ramp puree brighten up the fried chevre and hazelnut fritters. Simple touches of lemon zest, crushed red pepper, and confetti tomatoes add subtle flavoring to tender farfalle. The meaty halibut is roasted and bathed in a savory prosciutto broth, sealing in moisture and providing a hearty backing for the delicate cockles and grilled asparagus. The list of tempting desserts and after-dinner cocktails offers a few unexpected options of its own—like the elusive Balvenie Portwood 21-year-old Scotch—but a lower-than-expected total on your check may well be Giorgio's final and most welcome surprise. — John Vorwald