Hampton Chutney Co.

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It's a rare carb that can tempt an Upper West Sider away from a bagel, but the Hampton Chutney Co. dosa may have done it. Owners Gary and Isabel MacGurn returned from an ashram with a love for the thin, crispy Indian dosa and its intriguingly sour, slightly fermented flavor. Folded over various fillings while warm and soft, it becomes a foot-long meal. Scrambled eggs, cheese, and tomatoes get heaped into the breakfast dosa; curried or grilled chicken, roasted onions, spinach, and goat cheese are major players in other selections. These choices are also offered on open-face uttapas, doughy pancakes made from the same batter as dosas. One of the shop’s best picks is also the simplest: fragrant masala potatoes. The spices slowly warm your tongue, balanced by a caramelized sweetness from roasted onions. Drinks are notably delicious, too, especially the lemonade with orange blossom, the fresh chai, and the eye-opening cardamom-laced coffee. When you place your order at the counter, you choose a chutney (such as peanut, mango, or cilantro) to go with your meal, which adds a welcome bit of moisture to the mix. Also, it’s best not to wait to tuck in; both uttapas and dosas should be eaten piping hot. — Jennifer Paull

The uptown branch gives prime real estate to children: During the day, one of the front windows is a designated kids' corner, with a small table for coloring and a shelf of puzzles, toys, and children's books.

Classic masala dosa, $8.95; dosa with tuna, avocado, arugula and tomato, $12.95

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Best of New York Awards

• Best Lunch Hour Fast Food (2002)