Nelson Blue

Profile

New Zealand-born owner—and one time Puck Fair bartender—Pauli Morgan named this gastropub after his hometown down under. The low-ceilinged space features a curved wood bar and carved columns that resemble waka, traditional Maori war canoes engraved with tribal designs. The friendly swagger of the staff and the Kiwi focused wine list—highlighting vintners from the Marlborough and Otago regions—add authenticity. Only the pub grub is less consistent. Lamb appears on the menu in myriad forms, but the kebabs aren’t much different than those sold from midtown halal carts, and the signature dish of curried lamb pie is fatty and not particularly aromatic. Greasy starters like corn-zucchini fritters are tasty, though unmemorable; better choices are steamed green-lipped mussels, served in a delicate coconut-curry broth, and a perfectly executed club sandwich, layered with fried eggs, roasted tomato, smoky bacon, and a smear of avocado and spicy mayo. It’s the perfect foil for a fresh-pulled pint of Speight’s lager, one of the eight beers on tap. — Sarah Gold

The kitchen closes at midnight every night.

Green-lipped mussels, $16; fried-egg “sarni,” $11