Nice Green Bo

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There's not much that's elegant at Nice Green Bo—it's no-nonsense, with a tile floor, bright lightning, ten tables, and a crowded reception area that doubles as a station for making the battalions of dumplings and buns that are the signature dishes here. The large, steamed crab and pork soup dumplings are especially memorable, with a tender casing outside surrounding rich, salty broth, and a lump of slightly sweet meat. Nice Green Bo serves the foods popular in the coastal region around Shanghai, where wheat rather than rice is the staple grain, and salty and sweet flavors—rather than spicy—predominate. Appetizers are especially strong—the scallion pancake is large, flaky, and full of onions. Crispy eel, a cold dish, would make a stellar bar snack, the crunchy exterior of the deep-fried eel pieces a good foil for the slightly oily taste of the fish. Of the entrees, consider going for one of the many dishes cooked "in brown sauce," meaning braised in a soy sauce mixture that's later thickened into a salty, tangy gravy. Get here early to increase your chances of getting a table, and try to save a little room for dessert—the Original Chinatown Ice Cream Factory is right across the street. — John D. Rambow

Steamed crab meat and pork tiny buns, $6.95; crispy eel, $9.50; scallion pancake, $2.25; cold noodles in sesame sauce, $3.95

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