Rosa Mexicano

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This David Rockwell-designed downtown addition to the upscale Rosa Mexicano chain is neither chic like its West Side brother, nor intimate like its East Side sister, but over-the-top gaudy, with a 50-seat bar in the front room, bright colors blasted on the walls, and a shimmering blue-tiled centerpiece depicting a water wall, out of which emerge hundreds of teeny cliff-diver figurines in neat geometric form. In the back, the scene is more sedate. Main dishes are hit-or-miss: Unseasoned Chilean sea bass with pineapple-passion fruit sauce strikes out, but rolled corn tortillas stuffed with sweet crabmeat and surrounded by rich, satisfyingly bitter tomatillo sauce are expertly done. One item definitely worth the price is the restaurant's famous guacamole. Ceremoniously prepared to order in a tableside lava-rock molcajete, this chunky mash of creamy avocado and tomato makes a fine dip for warm corn tortillas. — JJ Goode

For fiestas grandes, Rosa Mexicano has private party facilities for up to 200 guests.

Crab enchiladas, $24; guacamole, $14