Tai Hong Lau

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Tai Hong Lau may not have updated its look for the times, but one taste of the reliable cuisine will make you forget its chewed-up white tablecloths, old red paper lanterns, and battered vinyl banquet chairs. While ubiquitous American-sounding dishes like a homey egg fried rice and a crisp sesame chicken are fine, hew close to entrées that may not sound familiar, like Tai Hong sticky rice, a lively sweet and savory concoction of salted duck egg, ground pork, and sticky rice wrapped tightly in a lotus leaf. The mixed dumplings are exceptionally fresh, with shrimp, leeks, and pork held deliciously in steamed white rice wrappers, and the Peking duck is divine, served in tender hunks of dark meat chunks topped with crisp, rich fat. Dim sum carts zip around the crowded place daily for lunch, and the expansive dining room is packed each night with Mandarin-speaking families who’ve made Tai Hong Lau a weekly destination for years. — Laurel Fantauzzo

On Mondays, the Peking duck is half-price.

Peking duck, $38; Tai Hong sticky rice, $12.95; mixed steamed dumplings, $7.95

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