Turks & Frogs Tribeca

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Osman Cakir, who converted a West Village antiques shop into a cozy wine bar called Turks & Frogs, expanded his Ottoman (and ottoman) empire with a full-fledged Turkish restaurant in Tribeca. He has outfitted a former stonemason's studio with French and Turkish antiques, a bar up front and a lounge in back. Cold meze are presented in traditional Turkish style on a large round tray, from which diners choose among stuffed grape leaves, bean salads, and multiple lush variations on an eggplant theme (smoked, baked, and stuffed). Lebni, the thick yogurt with walnuts, is as rich and delicious as the coban salad is crunchy and refreshing. Do justice to the meze, though, and you might have to forgo the entrées—but make sure to sample the Turkish wines, which come with enthusiastic commentary from the owner. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld