Vanessa’s Dumplings

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Although the orange walls and blue light fixtures suggest a formulaic approach to design (and underscore its fast-food format), the Beijing-style street food here is refreshingly handmade, and it shows—from the healthy boiled seafood to the rich fried cabbage and pork. Steamed buns (filled with vegetables, pork, or sweet red-bean paste) are by far the best bang for your buck, but the greasy, crisp sesame pancake sandwiches of pork, beef, and vegetables have also earned a well-deserved fan base. Avoid the Japanese dishes, which often fall short; consider taking home a bag of 30 frozen dumplings instead. — Julian Brizzi

Sesame pancake sandwich with roast pork, $2.99; vegetable fried dumplings, $2.49; steamed red-bean-paste bun, $1.29

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