Bedford Cheese Shop

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In its move from the recesses of Williamsburg's mini-mall to the corner location recently vacated by Clovis Press bookstore, Bedford Cheese Shop gains street access, two picture windows, and slightly larger premises—the better to display its exquisitely pungent wares. Meticulously kept, freely sampled, and wittily described on price placards, cheese is only part of the shop's success. There's also the expertly curated collection of local-food finds, from New York State maple syrup to Pastosa mozzarella made in a neighborhood garage. New to this location are a cheese plate of the day and a sandwich of the day, like Paul Bertolli's Fra' Mani soppressata with paprika-rubbed Ossau-Iraty and shallot-endive confit. — Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite

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• Restaurant Openings: Bedford Cheese Shop Relocates, Urban Lobster, and Cobblestone Foods (10/16/06)