Cheap Eats
ALL YOU CAN EAT
The best filling stations.
Last time
we made the trek uptown to Charles' Southern Style Kitchen,
we had thegreat good fortune to arrive at the exact moment when
the all-you-can-eat buffet ($6.99 at lunch, $9.99 at dinner) was
being replenished with crackling-hot fried chicken, chef-owner Charles
Gabriel's claim to soul-food fame. Suffused with the kind of distinctive
flavor that comes from long, slow marination -- and sheathed in
the sort of light, crispy skin that indicates expert frying -- this
bird alone is worth the cover charge, which you pay up front, as
if you were buying a movie ticket. Inside, a friendly waitress offers
you individually wrapped, beyond-moist cornbread and a plastic glass
of sweet lemonade ($1extra, free refills), and then you're free
to repeatedly pillage the steam table for beefy oxtails; smothered
steak; okra succotash; fine macaroni and cheese; candied yams; first-rate
collard greens tinged with turkey so smoky we swore we tasted pork;
and barbecued ribs in a splendid sweet sauce that gives the fried
chicken a run for your well-spent money.
Indian lunch buffets abound in this town, but we've narrowed the
field down to two personal faves. Dimple, a kosher vegetarian
restaurant and sweetshop, does deeply elaborate, delicious things
with vegetables, grains, beans, nuts, and yogurt. Seating is communal,
at hard wooden booths, so if you'd rather commandeer a comfy booth
of your own,head to Utsav, the ritzy restaurant located uniquely
in an elevated bridge between two midtown office buildings. At $12.95,
the spread is pricier than most, but the setting's posher (in a
contemporary, tasteful way), with tablecloths and flowers and gracious
waiters wearing chili-pepper-patterned neckties. Every day brings
a selection of vegetables and three meat dishes, plus a choice of
cold salads, top-notch chutneys and pickles, nan, superb saffron
pullao rice, and silky-sweet Indian puddings for dessert.
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