Harlem and Spanish Harlem
BY RAVEN SNOOK

Harlem
 
El Paso Taqueria
1642 Lexington Ave., between 103rd and 104th Sts.
212-831-9831
Smack-dab in the center of El Barrio, El Paso boasts authentic Mexican cuisine prepared by authentic Mexican cooks who know how to stuff a tortilla with rice, beans and taste.
• Minimum: $10
• Delivery area: 94th St. to 114th St, between First and Fifth Aves.
• Hours of delivery: 10 a.m. - 11 p.m.
• Credit cards: no
• Keeps address on file: no
Amy Ruth's
113 W. 116th St., between Lenox Ave and Adam Clayton Powell Blvd.
212-280-8779


Southern/Soul
Harlem's answer to Sardi's, Amy Ruth's serves up Southern specialties named after well-known (and not-so-well-known) African-Americans. Keep it real with the Councilman Bill Perkins, honey-dipped fried chicken ($11.95). The Foxy Brown, pan-seared jumbo shrimp ($16.95), seduces with its ocean-fresh aroma. Unnamed sides like cheesy grits, black-eyed peas and pan-fried apples, all $3.50, provide the perfect complement to larger-than-life dishes like the Rev. Al Sharpton: chicken and waffles, fried or smothered ($8.50).

Minimum: $20
Delivery area: 96th St. to 155th Sts. between East River and Hudson River.
Hours of delivery: 2 p.m. - 10 p.m. (Wed. - Sun.), no delivery Mon. or Tue.
Credit cards: yes
Keeps address on file: yes

Native
161 Lenox Ave., at 118th St.
212-665-2525


French Moroccan/Caribbean
Eschewing the fatty and fried foods served in most of the district's restaurants, Native brings healthy grilled pleasures to Harlem like a spicy Atlantic salmon in soy ginger sauce ($13) and light grilled lemon chicken salad ($12). The Bahamian seafood cobbler bursts with underwater delicacies like clams, prawns and squid blanketed in crust pastry and a white sauce ($16). Mediterranean-flavored entrées like linguini with chicken in chipotle cream ($11) and steak au poivre ($19) round out the eclectic menu, where "lightly fried" calamari ($8) constitutes the greasiest dish.

Minimum: $10
Delivery area: 114th St. to 124th St., Madison Ave. to Frederick Douglass Blvd.
Hours of delivery: 4 p.m. - 11 p.m.
Credit cards: yes
Keeps address on file: yes

Spanish Harlem

La Hacienda
219 E. 116th St., between Second and Third Aves.
212-987-1617


Mexican
Staples like fajitas, burritos and tacos are available, but we recommend trying something more exotic like house specialties Bisteac Azteca a la Parrilla con Nopal (grilled steak with cactus, jalapeno, baked potato and guacamole; $11) or the Gringa (pork chop, bacon, pineapple and melted cheese; $9). If you must stick to more common dishes, how about a quesadillas stuffed with unusual fillings like pumpkin flower or corn fungus ($10)? Wash it all down with sweet, freshly squeezed $2 juices like mango, papaya and banana.

Minimum: $10
Delivery area: 106th St. to 125th St., First Ave. to Fifth Ave.
Hours of delivery: noon - 9 p.m.
Credit cards: yes
Keeps address on file: yes



Orbit

2257 First Ave., at 116th St.
212-348-7818


New American/Fusion
There aren't many places above E. 96th Street that proffer haute cuisine. In fact, Orbit remains the area's fine dining pioneer. Its dinner menu offers an eclectic selection of well-priced panini, pastas and salads, as well as classier entrees at costlier prices. The inventive parmigiana encrusted cod with sun-dried tomato vinaigrette and black olive mash potatoes runs $17; the spicy filet mignon au poivre is $21; and at $27, the luscious 22-once porterhouse steak boasts a taste and price tag worthy of a ritzier district.

Minimum: $10
Delivery area: 106th St. to 125th St., Pleasant Ave. to Park Ave.
Hours of delivery: 5 p.m. - 9 p.m.
Credit cards: yes
Keeps address on file: no

Piatto d'Oro
349 E. 109th St., at First Ave..
212-828-2929


Italian
Throw out that Papa John's menu. Directly across the street from that corporate chain's East Harlem outpost lies this charming, old-world "cucina con amore" and pizza isn't the only thing on their menu. The 50 different dishes include homemade pastas topped with a variety of sauces as well as multiple chicken, veal and seafood platters. But the risottos ($10.95) are true standouts. The Risotto ai Funghi Porcini is heavy, creamy and overflowing with mushrooms while an artichoke white sauce makes the Risotto ai Carciofi a lighter choice. Those who love breasts should try the Sophia Loren: a voluptuous chicken breast stuffed with prosciutto and mozzarella in a shiitake mushroom sauce ($14.95).

Minimum: $15
Delivery area: 100th St. to 120th St., Pleasant Ave. to Fifth Ave.
Hours of delivery: 11 a.m. - 11 p.m.
Credit cards: yes
Keeps address on file: yes

 

 

 
 

Published May 31, 2004