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(Photo: Danny Kim) |
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Illustration by Kagan McLeod
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Beets
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- Russ & Daughters
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179 E. Houston St., nr. Orchard St. 212-475-4880
To the juices that remain after pickling beets for a salad, add fresh lemon, a pinch of sugar, et voilà, one beet-lemon shrub—the vaguely vinegary, wholly refreshing revival of a Colonial-era tonic.
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Illustration by Kagan McLeod
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Broccoli
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- Sorella
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95 Allen St., nr. Delancey St. 212-274-9595
Does tempura-frying broccoli and dousing it in hot-pickled-pepper aïoli and Grana Padano diminish its nutritive value? Does it matter?
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Illustration by Kagan McLeod
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Brussels Sprouts
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- Carmine Club Cafe
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41-43 Carmine St., nr. Bedford St. 212-933-0527
More ammunition against the anti-sprout camp, these are flash-fried and aggressively seasoned with Old Bay and citrus.
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Illustration by Kagan McLeod
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Carrots
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- Dirt Candy
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430 E. 9th St., nr. Ave. A; 212-228-7732
The vegetarian answer to Momofuku pork buns: dough tinted with carrot juice, a barbecued-carrot filling, and a carrot-hoisin dipping sauce.
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Illustration by Kagan McLeod
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Cauliflower
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- Torrisi Italian Specialties
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250 Mulberry St., nr. Prince St. 212-965-0955
What distinguishes this version from all others? The chefs’ insistence on the lowbrow garnish of their youth: Progresso bread crumbs.
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Illustration by Kagan McLeod
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Escarole
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- Porsena
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21 E. 7th St., nr. Cooper Sq.; 212-228-4923
A salad with oomph: wilted bitter leaves strewn with anchovy-infused croutons, and a dressing that pulls no punches.
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Illustration by Kagan McLeod
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Kale
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- Birdbath
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160 Prince St., nr. Thompson St. 212-612-3066
A shredded-kale salad that stands out in an increasingly crowded field, thanks to rich additions like toasted hazelnuts and Grana Padano.
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Illustration by Kagan McLeod
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Salsify
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- Buvette
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42 Grove St., nr. Bleecker St. 212-255-3590
The only thing better than slow-poaching salsify batons in red wine and honey, it appears, is encasing them in parchment with a cache of Roquefort cheese.
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Illustration by Kagan McLeod
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Squash
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- ABC Kitchen
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35 E. 18th St., nr. Broadway 212-475-5829
As befits a seasonal menu, dishes here come and go. But the deep-fried delicata rings, showered with goat cheese and maple syrup, better come back soon.
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Illustration by Kagan McLeod
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Turnip
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- Dovetail
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103 W. 77th St., nr. Columbus Ave. 212-362-3800
An unlikely star on the “Monday Veg” menu, the turnip seviche is “cured” with lime, then artfully combined with quinoa, pearl onions, and jícama.