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The Dutch
The much-hyped New Age “housemade fries.”
131 Sullivan St., at Prince St. 212-677-6200
VS
Balthazar
Classic French brasserie style “frites.”
80 Spring St., at Crosby St. 212-965-1414
Presentation
The Dutch: Elegant, on a cloth napkin
Balthazar: Elegant, in a paper coneSeasoning
The Dutch: Perfectly salted
Balthazar: Not enough saltColor
The Dutch: Pale gold
Balthazar: Dark goldCrispiness
The Dutch: Uniformly crispy
Balthazar: Mostly crispyMouthfeel
The Dutch: Smooth, faintly sweet after the crunch
Balthazar: Faintly greasy after the crunchGreasiness
The Dutch: Uniformly ungreasy
Balthazar: Occasionally greasyShape
The Dutch: Long and tapered
Balthazar: Slim, intermittently stubbyCost
The Dutch: $9
Balthazar: $9Winner
Both fries have their merits, but the Dutch version triumphs, thanks to its light, ungreasy quality, and the smooth potato-y taste after the crunch.
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Smackdown: French Fries
From the 2012 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine