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(Photo: Jesse WInter/Courtesy of M. Wells Dinette) |
Bar Burger:
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- Pork Slope
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247 Fifth Ave., nr. Carroll St., Park Slope; 718-768-7675
Proust had his madeleines, Tony Soprano his gabagool; for Dale Talde, it was McDonald’s cheeseburgers, and this, he claims, is a tribute. Nevertheless, it’s the best new bar burger in town ($11, including one side; get the tater tots).
Cocktail-Bar Burger:
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- The Beagle
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162 Ave. A, nr. 10th St.; 212-228-6900
Like its well-crafted mixed drinks, the Beagle’s superb West Coast–style cheeseburger is all about balance and proportion. The nicely crusted patty is on the svelte side, the brioche bun is buttered and grilled, and the pickles and Thousand Island dressing are made in-house ($15 including fried fingerlings).
Patty Melt:
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- Parish Hall
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109A N. 3rd St., nr. Berry St., Williamsburg; 718-782-2602
Pat LaFrieda has nothing on this magnificent burger blend: It’s lamb bacon mingled with beef, and it’s rich and drippy and delicious in ways we’ve yet to fully comprehend. The decision to serve it with grilled onion and good Welsh-style farmstead cheese on butter-griddled planks of rye from the neighborhood Polish bakery is a stroke of genius that could spark a patty-melt craze ($15 with salad or fries).
Grass-Fed Burger:
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- Reynard
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80 Wythe Ave., at N. 11th St., Williamsburg; 718-460-8004
Unlike many lean, gristly grass-fed burgers, this one is leavened with lots of juicy fat and topped, for good measure, with an optional wad of melty Gruyère for $16 including fries.
Veggie Burger:
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- Birdbath and the City Bakery
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Multiple locations.
Liberated from the confines of a bready bun (and all hippie associations), the suave chickpea-bulgur-pumpkin-seed puck is tucked into Hot Bread Kitchen’s parathalike m’smen, along with avocado, cilantro, and tomatillo sauce that could’ve been hijacked off a taco ($8.50).
Double Cheeseburger:
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- Blue Collar
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160 Havemeyer St., nr. S. 2nd St., Williamsburg; 347-725-3837
One theory behind the success of the double is that two thin patties are better than one: the top effectively basting the bottom with its meaty drippings, thereby creating an ideal ratio of juicy beef to squishy bun ($6.25).
Deli Burger:
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- Mile End Sandwich
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53 Bond St., nr. Bowery; 212-529-2990
In the wake of the dearly departed Breakfast Burger comes the Smoked-Meat Burger, a loosely packed beef-and-pastrami patty well browned on the griddle and topped with pickle, onion, and a choice of Cheddar or Comté ($15). Have it with a side of poutine when the end is near.