Best of New York 2013 • Eating

• Bar Corvo

  791 Washington Ave., nr. Lincoln Pl., Crown Heights; 718-230-0940

  Nobody will deny the appeal of traditional French fries, but Bar Corvo in Crown Heights has an alternative for die-hard carnivores: When chef de cuisine Carla Martinez noticed her staff snacking on a crispy beef-tongue garnish intended for a gnocchi dish, inspiration hit. Now the “fries” on Martinez’s menu are made from beef tongue that’s been braised in chicken stock for three to four hours. The inconceivably tender variety meat is sliced, tossed in a beer-and-rice-flour batter, and fried to order. Since no fries are complete without a dip, Martinez serves hers with homemade aïoli spiked with fresh horseradish. The result: a classic flavor pairing in a brand-new package ($8).

From the 2013 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine