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(Photo: Sarah Silberg/New York Magazine) |
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- Wilma Jean
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345 Smith St., at Carroll St., Carroll Gardens; 718-422-0444
It’s well agreed that we are living in an age of culinary mash-ups so gimmicky and ill-conceived it makes you wonder if Wolfgang Puck ever regrets plopping slices of smoked salmon and dollops of caviar onto a pizza. So what to say about Wilma Jean chef Rob Newton’s Hoppin’ John burrito—Carolina Gold rice; field peas cooked with country ham; fried chicken; and raw collards (practically the restaurant’s entire menu), all wrapped up in a flour tortilla? “Sounds very wrong, tastes ridiculously right” about sums it up—like Edna Lewis opening a Chipotle.