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(Photo: Carolyn Griffin/New York Magazine) |
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- Cosme
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35 E. 21st St., nr. Broadway; 212-913-9659
Enrique Olvera calls this magisterial creation “duck carnitas,” but don’t let the carnitas part fool you. It’s more or less a half-duck, which Olvera’s crew cures in a mix of things (evaporated milk, carrots, Mexican Coke, etc.) designed to enhance the bird’s natural fatty sweetness. After curing, the duck is braised, and after the braise, it’s finished in the oven before being hoisted to the table in a sizzling cast-iron pan. The result is a duck for the ages, one that combines the ethereal pleasures of Peking duck with the simpler joys of a messy, freshly made taco.