Craftbar

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The original Craftbar is no longer with us, sad to say, at least not in its edifying tiny form. Tom Colicchio and his partners moved their operation to a much bigger space on Broadway just above Union Square. The space seats 150. There is a large, elevated wine rack, complete with a vaguely treacherous-looking catwalk. There is a bar in front, designed not for the mass consumption of lots of very profitable cocktails. The menu has been enlarged, and those small finger-food dishes, like the meatballs and even the beloved paninis, have been struck. In their place is a more standard progression of seasonal salads, upmarket appetizers, and big, aggressive entrées flavored with obscure, seasonally varying ingredients like stinging nettles, pickled ramps, and fennel pollen. Much of the food is good, but the restaurant's intimacy is gone, and with it that certain quality of specialness. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Sat.-Sun., 10:30 a.m.-4 p.m.

Pecorino fonduta, $12

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Best of New York Awards

• Where To Eat: For More Delicate Palates (2003)
• Best Dessert (2002)
• Best Sandwich: Pressed Panini (2002)