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 Food
 Best 
                          Scene 
                          Cuisine
 
  Aleutia 220 
                          Park Avenue
 212-529-3111
 
 
 The 
                          Look: A glass-and-chrome sixties duplex Rock Hudson 
                          and Tony Randall might have shared. Rock would have 
                          lived up top, natch.
 The Crowd: Flashin'-forward types from Lower 
                          Park Avenue. Downstairs, overcrowded same-sex tables; 
                          upstairs, tense third dates. But the food makes it worth 
                          the effort.
 The Appeal: If they'd all shut up and chew for 
                          a minute, they'd discover Gavin Citron is a really talented 
                          chef.
 The Meal: Steamed truffle dumplings, smoked venison 
                          on birchwood, cardamom-cappuccino sundae.
 The Mistake: Thursday night.
 Plus: More Best 
                          Scene Cuisine 
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