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Food
Best Whole Fish
Avra
141 East 48th Street
212-759-8550
If you love the sweet, firm taste of fresh seafood, there is nothing purer than the presentation of a simply prepared whole fish on a plate. The Greek estiatoria seem to handle this concept best — the catch so recently pulled from the water that it is displayed on ice, eyes glistening for all diners to see. While Milos (125 West 55th Street; 212-245-7400) without question serves some of the freshest whole fish in town and cooks it to perfection, it charges by the pound for whole fish, so the cost can be devastating unless you go for the pre- or post-theater deal. Avra and its sister restaurant Trata (1331 Second Avenue; 212-535-3800) also charge by weight, but the prices are a bit gentler, and the fare just as tasty. The fish is simply brushed with a mixture of lemon and oil, then lightly charcoal-grilled so that it’s still moist and flavorful. Before it hits the table, it is superficially deboned, splashed with a ladolemono sauce, and dressed with parsley, oregano, and capers.
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