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(Photo: Tasting Table) |
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- Dirty French
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180 Ludlow St., nr. Houston St.; 212-254-3000
Is there another sandwich that better defines the beauty of the form than the French dip? Meat and bread and the beefy juices exuded while roasting the meat. What else do you need? Which isn’t to say that in French-dip cookery there isn’t room for improvement. Case in point is Dirty French’s lunchtime version—a length of baguette layered with peppercorned top round, horseradish cream, and the genius addition of lardolike slivers of deckle cadged from the dinner menu’s côte de boeuf. For dunking: some high-octane beef jus spiked with Lea & Perrins.