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(Photo: Carolyn Griffin/New York Magazine) |
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- Kao Soy
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283 Van Brunt St., nr. Pioneer St., Red Hook; 718-875-1155
For her northern-Thai sausage (sai oua), Kanlaya Supachana uses pork shoulder seasoned with chiles, coriander root, and lemongrass. The grilled sausage also gets a strong right hook from a pinch of shredded Kaffir-lime leaf, and the kitchen makes a picnic-worthy spread of it with long beans, cucumber, mustard greens, and soft sticky rice steamed in banana leaf. Chewy, jerkylike strips of fried pork round out the plate, along with a side of nam prik noom, a chunky dip made from blistered green chiles and roasted shallots.